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Tacogirl Belize blog Est. in 2007

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The Coming Pupusa War

by tacogirl 23/09/2015
written by tacogirl 23/09/2015
Pupusa in Belize

A Tongue in Cheek Story by Bill McMichael

When in San Pedro, we frequently make a point of dining at one or both of the Pupusarias on Middle Street. For those that do not know what pupusas are, Wikipedia describes pupusas as follows: A pupusa (Spanish pronunciation: pu’pusa, from Pipil pupusaw) is a traditional Salvadoran dish made of a thick, handmade corn tortilla made using masa de maíz, a cornmeal dough used in Mesoamerican cuisine, that is usually filled with a blend of the following:

  • cheese (queso) (usually a soft cheese called Quesillo found throughout Central America)
  • cooked pork meat ground to a paste consistency (called chicharrón, not to be confused with fried pork rind, which is also known as chicharrón in some other countries)
  • refried beans (frijoles refritos), or queso con loroco (loroco i s a vine flower bud from Central America).

How Pupusas are Made

Pupusas in San Pedro are prepared on gas fires, flat-top griddles located in front of the restaurants by expert pupusa chefs at two very similar restaurants directly across the street from each other. Waruguma and Pupusaria El Salvador have very similar ambiance, menus and pricing. When we started going to San Pedro, Waruguma was the one that was praised on Tripadvisor.com so on the trip when we finally ventured off the beach, we dined there. The food was fabulous at a price point that was so low it almost made us uncomfortable.

So for several years, we would eat there because it began to seem familiar. While noshing on pupusas, we would see the woman preparing the pupusas along the street for Waruguma. 25ft beyond her was the rival pupusa maker from Pupusaria Salvadoreño making her succulent, savory, Central American pancakes. Then one day it happened. We gathered the courage to venture across the street to sample the “other” pupusaria. You know what? It was good, very good. The service was also very good. It might have even been a few degrees cooler on that hot August night. The menu was incredibly similar to that of Waruguma. We enjoyed our shared lobster burrito and pupusas like we had in the past at Waruguma. The Cokes and Belikins were cold. The service was very quick. It was a very good experience.

And so it continued for a few of our Ambergris Caye visits. When the pupusa cravings would start, we would sometimes eat at Waruguma and sometimes eat at Pupusaria Salvadoreño. We enjoyed both places almost equally. Both serve great food at an extreme value with great service.

Pupusa Wars

This past visit, we noticed that something had changed along that stretch of Middle Street. Whatever it was, it was not obvious. Even though we were welcomed back with literally opened arms at Pupusaria Salvadoreño, I could tell there was tension in the air. There seemed to be a flash of aggression in the eyes of the formerly cheerful dueling pupusa makers. They stared over their flat tops in silence at each other like the gunfighters at the OK Corral waiting for someone to make a move. Nothing was overt, but a certain passive-aggressiveness could be sensed. We did not realize what was going on. Both restaurants had always seemed symbiotic in the past in drawing Salvadoran food enthusiasts to their stretch of Middle Street. We returned to our condo puzzled.

On a subsequent night, we were only slightly hungry and tired from a long day of fishing, so we hobbled up the beach to town and went to “Pupusaria Row.” We once again were welcomed with literally opened arms at Pupusaria Tipico. It was almost closing time so we just ordered a couple of pupusas and Belikins. Since we were the last patrons in the restaurant, the owner sat down with us to chat. This had never happened in the past, probably because the place had always been busy.

The staff flittered about readying the restaurant for closing as the owner began to speak. He pointed out the previously unnoticed new banner on Waruguma across the street. It read “Pupusaria Salvadorena”. It took a second for me to realize what was going on. He explained that he thought that the resorts had been recommending his establishment to their guests over Waruguma and that Waruguma’s management had decided that the other Pupusaria  was winning. They put up a banner hoping to draw in some of those tourists that had been directed to Pupusaria Salvadoreño. He was bewildered. The previously cold war had erupted into a hot war. He began to explain that they were stealing his name. I now realized what that glint of aggression was in the eyes of the previously passive pupusa preparing ladies. It was contempt! I tried to assuage his fears. We realized that we had come to enjoy the slightly faster service and slightly lower prices on the western side of the street. Doesn’t the better business usually win? Still he was concerned. Inside I had a chuckle, not believing that he could be upset by something that seemed so trivial as a temporary banner.

And so we returned to our home outside Philadelphia in the USA not realizing that change was coming to Middle Street. On March 1st, Pupuseria Salvadoreño updated their Facebook page with the following message:
SPECIAL NOTICE TO OUR VALUED CUSTOMERS~  NAME CHANGE ANNOUNCEMENT WE ARE NOW KNOWN AS~ ORIGINAL # 1 PUPUSERIA SALVADOREÑO. Our Business Name has changed due to another business registering their restaurant in the same name we have used for years. As a result we were forced to change our name for proper registration purposes. So we complied and are now known as: ORIGINAL #1 PUPUSERIA SALVADOREÑO- Same family owned, same great food, same location and look forward to continuing serving up the best menu choices with uninterrupted service. Many thanks to our customers and community support.

And so it continues. The pupuseria on the west side of Middle Street is now named Original #1 Pupuseria Salvadoreño. Did they really need to change their name? Will Waruguma also change their name? It all seems like a lot of drama. Can’t the different pupusaria factions get along? Will a new pupusaria open up near Waruguma on Back Street? Will I be able to get the same delicious lobster burritos (during lobster season) and papusas? Inquiring minds want to know.

Update, September 2015:

Waruguma has moved to Angel Coral, (Back St.) but there are still two restaurants that serve pupusas on Pescador Dr. (Middle St.). Waruguma’s sister restaurant (east side of the street) is now called Pupuseria Hati. Both are managed by Cari Alcala Monforte. 2016 Update: Pupuseria Hati was lost in the June 2016 Pescador Dr. Fire. My article is on Ways to Help Fire Survivors.

All three places are well liked on TripAdvisor Click through to read traveler reviews on Waruguma, and Pupuseria Salvadoreño.

Restaurants in San Pedro Belize

Waruguma is now Pupuseria Hati (same owners) south east near the end of Middle Street

Restaurants in San Pedro

Pupuseria Salvadoreño south west on near the end of Middle Street

Pupuseria Salvadoreño  opens in the afternoon

Restaurants in San Pedro Belize

Pupuseria Salvadoreño opens in the afternoon

Restaurants in San Pedro Belize

New Waruguma well known for their lobster burritos

San Pedro Belize Restaurants

Well known for their pupusas

San Pedro Belize Restaurants

Waruguma now located at north west end of Back Street

Related

tacogirl

Laure Norton grew up dyslexic and was very challenged by the school. She never dreamed she would move to Belize and become a writer. A year after her move to Ambergris Caye, Laurie became an entrepreneur and professional writer starting tacogirl blog in 2007. Since then she has helped many people plan their vacations or move. She also has been published in Great Destinations Belize Guidebook, Moon Guide to Living in Belize, Insight Guides, Island Magazine several times and USA Today. Currently Laurie resides in downtown San Pedro and enjoys being a "city girl" on a tropical island.

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Corey Holm
Corey Holm
04:38 25 Feb 20
I take the seniors from our academy to Belize every year for their senior trip. One of the first people I contact when... I start planning the trip is Laurie with TacoGirl Belize. She knows the island of San Pedro better than anyone else out there. Trust me, I have looked. If you are looking for the best restaurants, hang outs and shops then Laurie help plan your vacation.read more
Carol Taylor
Carol Taylor
15:53 24 Feb 20
Love Taco Girl Blog @LaurieNorton! I've been reading this blog since I started visiting Ambergris Caye in Belize almost... 10 years ago. It is filled with helpful up-to-date information and recommendations that I wouldn't necessarily find on my own. Laurie Norton's knowledge and extensive network on the island provides her with the ability to share perks/discounts/coupons with her readers, which come in handy year after year. Things on the island change daily - new businesses pop up constantly and LaurieNortonstays on top of these developments. Whenever I plan my return trip to the island, I always check her blog first - and I recommend you do the same. Trip Advisor ain't got nuttin' on Taco Girl!read more
Heidi
Heidi
20:01 20 Feb 20
Laurie's blog is my official “go to” source for tourist and local information on San Pedro. Of course, it’s always nice... to see her guides on “what to do” in San Pedro, but I also appreciate her “insider” advice and human interest stories on what it’s like living as a local on the island. There is so much information it's amazing! Thank you Laurie!!!read more
Nick Goodman
Nick Goodman
21:23 30 Nov 19
I am considering a move to Belize and I have serendipitously found tacogirl.....what a treasure! She is full of great... advice, helpful hints.....knows everybody on Ambergris Caye and has a thousand useful recommendations and suggestions. Whether you are planning a vacation or relocating, you should make use of the many services she has to offer…..read more
KellyDivePhotography
KellyDivePhotography
20:58 30 Nov 19
I’m so pleased to see tacogirl's blog on Google. Laurie's blog is my official “go to” source for tourist and local... information on San Pedro. Of course, it’s always nice to see her guides on “what to do” in San Pedro, but I also appreciate her “insider” advice and human interest stories on what it’s like living as a local on the island. I especially enjoy her guest articles, providing a different perspective of all things San Pedro. Her tipping quide is a classic, and don’t forget her Tropic Air flight code and on-island discounts. You’re not up-to-date with what’s going on in San Pedro if you’re not regularly reading tacogirl's blog.read more
Sandra Godfrey
Sandra Godfrey
15:58 23 Nov 19
I have known Laurie (Taco Girl) for several years. She has been a wealth of good information for me in all of my... pursuits in Belize. I highly recommend her for any services you may require.read more
William Jones
William Jones
13:39 06 May 19
Do yourself a favor. Read this BEFORE any trip to San Pedro - Ambergris Caye or Belize in general. Not saying “do what... everyone else says”, but Laurie has frank and honest info which will make your stay in country a little more fun, a little more informative, and often at a great cost savings. Best thing: it’s unbiased, honest, and factual. Personal note: thank you for your personal tailored help in answering mine (and my wife’s) questions.read more
Kimberly Robinson
Kimberly Robinson
18:28 03 May 19
Taco Girl (Laurie) is amazing. She has so much knowledge about Belize and has great connections with many of the... businesses in Belize. Because of her connections she is able to offer many perks and discounts that you wouldn't have been able to find otherwise. She is super responsive and I always go to her for all my travel needs. From golf cart rentals, to spas, to places to eat. She's got the inside scoop on all!read more
Michael Rieck
Michael Rieck
20:22 21 Apr 19
Since 2003, my wife and I have been to Ambergris at least once a year to experience the fantastic diving. About twelve... years ago we me Tacogirl on a blog giving us discounts on golf carts, local airfares, and restaurants. Over the years we have grown a friendship and I look forward to her weekly blogs about he changes on my favorite home away from home. The island changes every year, and she always shows you what to see, do, and eat.read more
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THE ORIGINAL BELIZE BLOG

ABOUT ME

I took the plunge and moved to San Pedro Town on the Island of Ambergris Caye, off the coast of Belize, Central America. Originally from Canada, I made the life-changing move to escape winter for good (in 2006) after one three week vacation.

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SPARKING MY DESIRE

3 childhood memories that shaped my desire to move to Belize from a young age.Sailing in the Virgin Islands, seeing a rainbow out the window of an island hopper as we flew from Virgin Islands to Puerto Rico, Christmas in Hawaii and many trips to Florida.

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